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Enzo needs no introduction,
he is the myth of Sardinian climbing. He
has done everything during his life as a
climber: he equipped at least one hundred
routes, from the top, the bottom, horizontally,
vertically, diagonally and sometimes swimming
there…in other words he has climbed and
fallen in every possible way, he has jumped
from 100 m high grottoes, he has also fallen
in the Verdon Gorges, saving himself at
the last minute hanging on to a rope...what
more can I say! Obviously, since he has
done so many things, he has also spoiled
classic routes with spits (some of his “enemies”
certainly remember this), created unnecessary
routes and other assorted “horrors”, but
Enzo has also generously given us dozens
of vertical kilometres, all for us to enjoy.
And that cannot be underestimated, in a
vertical world of climbers who are only
focused on themselves and their achievements.
Doesn’t a person have to be appreciated
globally, without only judging his mistakes?
Everyone can make mistakes, due to his passion…
but it is extremely unpleasant to be judged,
just like in court martial, by those who
believe they are always right, judges of
someone else’s actions… You all know Enzo
the clown, the goliardic, the exhibitionist,
the blasphemous swearer, the drugged, drunk
and madly in love with one thousand women,
therefore I will tell you about him…if you
still don’t know him, you just need to visit
him at the Rifugio Gorroppu in Dorgali and
you will have fun discovering him in the
endless after hour parties, along with his
friends Johnny and Tossina… What nobody
remembers is that Enzo is first of all a
passionate and strong climber (thus obtaining
excellent results) and there is no corner
of Sardinia which he has not explored and
where he has left some traces, chasing his
dreams. All this has been lasting 15 years…
not an easy achievement!
A record ?
The soundtrack of the movie
“Trainspotting”.
A movie ?
Garage Olimpo.
And a writer ?
Pino Cacucci.
When did you discover
climbing ?
In 1985, on the beach at Palau.
And which was the
spark which started this passion ?
Pure and simple adventure.
Is there a cliff
of your dreams ?
At the moment “Kalimnos” , or “Cuba”…
And the cliff where
you usually go ?
Codula Fuili.
A goal ?
A new route at Gorropu, it is
already called “Come te nessuno mai”. It
is dedicated to Lamentu.
A myth in climbing
?
Madagascar “Tsaranoro” and “Vazahni
ytap ytapy” by Tony Arbones (which is now
in front of me at the refuge).
How important is
friendship in climbing ?
It’s like old spits, fundamental,
but unfortunately subject to strange ill-feelings;
I maybe claim to be tough, but that is also
subjective.
Do you feel like
risking more than in your everyday life
?
I maybe do many risky things,
but I really and frequently have felt what
it means to not exist and disappear.
How important is
it for you to feel physically fit ?
It’s at least as important as extreme sex
and drugs.
If you stopped
climbing you would…
This year I discovered snowboard and so…
summer in New Zealand and winter in Canada,
spring and autumn on the snow in Colombia…
by the way, do you know Columbian girls?
What do you love
most in Sardinia ?
It is always amazes me with its beautiful
women.
And what do you
hate ?
Costa Smeralda.
Would you like to live and climb somewhere
else ?
Yes, in Brazil.
In
your opinion, Sardinian climbers are:
A bit conformists and too “modern”.
Do you like the
current concept of climbing ?
As all types of art, it has its surface
and content, everyone sees a reflex of their
own inner being, I think there is enough
space for a personal research out of pre-established
patterns.
And what about competitions ?
Fun often visited by too many
sad persons…
In the end, what
is climbing for you ?
I have to think about it… (Enzo has been
thinking about it for 20 days, in the meanwhile
we will publish the interview! Ndr)
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