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Eleven years have gone by since we opened the car door
during an afternoon of January, to get off and see Jerzu
cliffs in the centre eastern Sardinia. Two days after
the first route of sports climbing was born: it was on
the Jerzu walls, and was called "Colour dream". At the
beginning we were seized with a frenzy and we equipped
almost 60 routes in less than three years: it was the
minimum quantity that could assure a certain amount of
visits at Jerzu. We have come back and tried these routes
during a lot of summer-week-ends (but that also happened
during winter, when the climate is harsher, as the walls
are at an altitude of 800 meters); we have grazed our
fingers on these sharp little holes, with the purpose
of giving a degree to the projects, but especially of
climbing in a place we liked, even if it wasn't consistent
with the fashion of overhanging rocks, which has been
in the limelight in the last years. Yes, the routes are
all vertical here at Jerzu; the overhanging ones can be
counted on one's fingers. They are vertical, but with
what kind of continuity! Sometimes there isn't a big grip
to allow a rest, especially a psychical one! But if that
was a real peculiarity for us, for some others that became
an excessively "technical" climbing, of difficult interpretation
and little possibilities to climb it on sight: that contributed
to create an halo of myth around the walls of Jerzu, an
halo of myth but especially of fear. Therefore several
climbers avoided climbing those wonderful cliffs in favour
of Isili, a famous centre of (exclusively) overhangs.
But to explode this myth it is necessary to say that the
routes of Jerzu are less technical than certain slabs
of Finale, Of Lecco and of Arco! But the bigs have always
keep their distance from there in the last decades, even
if there were lots of difficult routes and of projects
to free ….It is only right that I mention the few who
decided to engage in this kind of climbing and obtained
great satisfactions. I would like to remember the Piedmontese
Massimiliano Giri, who has already repeated "Noi" ("Us",
8b+) at Andonno and conquered the first repetition in
three rounds of Manifesto (8a) that was the hardest route
of Jerzu. And then naturally there was Marzio Nardi's
visit, who was even able to climb "Trasparenza" (Transparency,
7c+), an incredible on sight if we consider there weren't
traces of magnesite. And finally we must remember Manolo,
who has repeated almost the 70 per cent of the routes
of Jerzu in the last year (150 pitches!) and has literally
been subdued by this place. The first repetition of "After
Eight" (7c+/8a) and especially of the first free climbing
of "Penthotal" (8a) took place thanks to him. Manolo confirmed
my evaluation of all the degrees I had suggested (I am
the first and often the sole climber of the 95 per cent
of the routes at Jerzu), except "Ci vuole un fisico bestiale"
("One needs a bestial body") of which he suggested 7b+
instead of 7c. But Manolo laughs and say: "….but they
are only slabs, I am getting on well…, my opinion is unimportant!".
A regional project was financed in 1996: it was about
the environment recovery of the area where there are the
walls. Thanks to Giuseppe Garippa's interest that works
at Jerzu, the climbing has been included in the project
too. I have equipped 150 new routes, alone, in the sun,
with the wind, the rain and even the snow from that moment
on; these routes are distributed on the three principal
routes. I have added several routes of the sixth degree
and some of fourth and fifth degrees, to remedy the excessive
selectivity that lots of visitors complained of. All the
routes have been shielded with resined squared stones
fixed in the ground and no hold has been digged. On Penthonal
a stone has been reattached instead of a flake which was
unfortunately shattered.
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Il
Mago della Pioggia (7b+)
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