Climbing Areas

Bruncu Nieddu

Maurizio Oviglia brought a new track to conclusion: he climbed alone the overhanging northwest wall of Bruncu Nieddu in the Supramonte of Oliena in August. Maurizio assured himself with the gri-gri modified method during all the phases of the ascent, while the opening style was as always that of the climbing without aid climbing moves in the sections between one bolt and another. The new track, 270 meters long, proposes compulsory difficulties of 6b/c but a considerable continuity: five pitches out of eight are superior to 7a and the remaining three pitches are over the 6b+. The new track has been called " Star of Blood", being inspired by a beautiful mural at Orgorsolo, which recall the so-called "accidental deaths". Then Maurizio Oviglia free climbed the track with Simone Sarti, who has among other things covered the entire itinerary at sight. The greatest difficulties were in the second and third picthes, 7b+ and 7b respectively, over a continuous overhang of unusual beauty. During the solitary ascent something didn't go smoothly: Maurizio threw off for more than 10 metres, because of the break of the straps of the cliff the second day: he fortunately had no consequences but was only frightened! One can then say that the gri-gri method works.