Climbing Areas

: Excellent quality flaked limestone, with concretions and flutes; overhanging and vertical in the central part, more leaning in the left sector.

STYLE : Muro dei Folletti offers excellent holds, mainly athletic on vertical walls from 25 to 30 metres: a fairly good continuity is required…

Protection: 10 mm inox spit fix and chains at belas on all routes; the classical “Geometria di un Sorriso” is partly equipped with a piton in the key part, but nuts and slings are useful.

Sun: West: the wall is exposed to the sun from 11.00 to sunset.

ACCESS: As for Punta Pilocca (see Pietra di Luna): coming from Domusnovas, pass the ghost village of Arenas, leave the following picnic area and spring on the left, after about 100m park your car near a left-turning bend, beneath the large oak trees. Find the path on the right and follow it (red and white signs) first inside the forest, then coasting the stone quarry (beware not to cause rocks to fall on the lower part of the path!) until you reach the wall (15 min).

THE ROUTES (names at the feet of the routes): the so called “Settore Fidanzate”, at the far left side of the wall, offers the three most human and reasonable climbs:

1 - FEFFOLA VADO A SCALARE !           5b / 20mt
slab with holes
2 -LA SAGA DEI PISTIS                         5a / 20m
Straight wall and exit on slab
3 - SETTANTA ALLA SETTIMANA            5c / 20mt
Small passages and lunar final

On the nice grey wall:

4 - GEOMETRIA DI UN SORRISO             VI / 70mt-nuts
Interesting vertical flakes…
Begins on slab, then the wall straightens becoming athletic
6 - I SOLITI STRONZETTI                        6a / 25mt
Usual change in inclination and difficult move
7 - MOVIGLI@ ON THE NET                     6a+ / 25mt
Continuous and technical, more athletic at the end
8 - PERFORATORI KOMBATTENTI              6b+ / 25mt
Fairly hard beginning, disguised by a deceiving perspective

Once the biceps are warm, if you love flutes, here are the overhanging routes:

9 - ROMANTICI & CORAGGIOSI           6c+ / 30mt
Beautiful continuous and homogeneous route
10 - LEGITTIMO SOSPETTO                  7a / 30mt
Long lock-ups
11 - TZIU GIANKY                                 7b / 30mt
Complete route: boulder, physical holes and technical exit!
12 - I MUSCOLI DEL KAPITANO           7a+ / 30mt
Another nice route: physical flute and holes and crimpers in the end
13 - THE PREMIER                                 6c+ / 30mt
The must, a 20 m great flute!

A bit more technical, always slightly overhanging:

14 - LENINGRADO                       6c+ / 30mt
Psiko route on small crimpers, face it only if you are sure of yourself
15 - GENTLE GIANT                      6c/c+ / 25mt
Nice and continuous wall on crimpers variable in size

Again overhanging, but a bit harder:

16 - ROBBOTTEDDU                      7a / 15mt
Several ways of facing hard boulder, 7a farther on the left
17 - SPIRITUAL CLIMBER            7b / 15mt
Nice route, sufficiently hard and intense

A “sweet” ending…

20 - MILANESE D.O.C.                   6b+ / 15mt
AHarmless appearance but high intensity!
21 - MDF (Modulazione di Frequenza) 6a+ / 15mt
Where have the quiet slabs (and 6a+) gone?