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winter 2001/2002: 8a For everybody?


The standard of local climbers has finally seemed to rise and grade 8 is not a privilege of the usual three or four anymore! Climbers from Cagliari wake up from lethargy and new names appear in the elite of local climbing, so the young Mauro Pisano and Giorgio Caddeo were able to achieve their first 8a with Wonderland, which seems to be one of the most longed-for routes by those who yearn for this goal. We are mostly surprised by the “merchant captain” Fabrizio Dessi', definitely uncontrollable this winter, who corners difficult routes and says that he “wants to continue until he doesn’t break...”: we can only hope that he is strong enough to stand the wear and tear... Mariano Zurru is doing very well, he achieved the “grand slam” at the “Pietra Filosofale” in Isili and ended the year with a boulderous 8a+ of Work in Progress, avoiding the physiotherapist: a double achievement! The “false Sardinian” Domenico De Milato did also better, from a numerical point of view, closing for first “Kaum...” in Fuili, no less than 8b!
Those not mentioned in this exclusive 8 club, are certainly planning some great achievement in spring, so...we will talk about them soon, they mustn’t worry. Very few First Free Ascents (only Engaku Taino by myself stands out), the level of the onsight routes is definitely disappointing...
On the bloc side we must mention Marco Bussu, nowadays in the Olympus of Italian boulder (but Giorgio Soddu doesn’t let us know anything - he snobs us?-, but we know that he polishes and climbs dozens of blocks in Orani and Orotelli!)... I follow at a looong distance, the only “part time” boulderer-explorer in the southern part of the island, whereas Matteo Cara is shyly trying new blocks and is starting from 7b (we had no doubts!)...
We can complete this list with the usual Marco Marrosu and Lorenzo Castaldi, alias Strarsky & Hutch, who always find some new unprotected and dangerous route when they are together. There is no danger that someone will want to imitate them, they can still operate undisturbed!

First ascents rotpunkt-style (we report up to grade 7b, since there have been few achievements)
back to arrampicatori sardi







Fabrizio Dessi
Fabrizio Dessi'

Mauro Pisano
Mauro Pisano

Mariano Zurru
Mariano Zurru

8a/8a+ - Engaku Taino (Ruota del tempo, Domusnovas) for Maurizio Oviglia
7b - When the music is over (Quirra) for Simone Sarti


On sight routes
(we report also lower grades, since there have been few achievements)

7b - Il mostro di Isili (Quirra) for Giorgio Caddeo

7a - Patchwork (Jerzu) for Giorgio Caddeo and Cecilia Marchi

Repetitions
(from 7c upwards)

Ugo Bertoni

8a - Luna di miele (La Poltrona, Cala Gonone)

Giorgio Caddeo

8a
- Wonderland (senza muretto, Isili)

Domenico De Milato

8b
- Kaum traumen... (Cala Fuili)

Fabrizio Dessi'

8a/8a+ - Engaku Taino (Ruota del Tempo, Domusnovas)
8a/8a+ - Sarayevo (Urania, Isili)
8a - Fratellini chimici (Tana delle tigri, Domusnovas)
7c+/8a - Cronache Marziane (Urania, Isili)
7c+ - Overdose (Tana delle tigri, Domusnovas)

Antonello Pala

8a
- Caffè surreale (Urania/Isili)

Mauro Pisano

8a
- Wonderland (senza muretto, Isili)
8a - Fratellini chimici (Tana delle tigri, Domusnovas)

Mariano Zurru


8a+ - Work in progress (Pietra Filosofale, Isili)
7c+ - Dissonanze (Urania, Isili)

Boulder (from 7c upwards)

7a - “La buccia della luna” in Villasimius for Maurizio Oviglia
7a/7a+ - “Solitaire” in Rio Cannas for Maurizio Oviglia
7c - 'Time line” in Orotelli for Marco Bussu
7c - “Il rumore delle scorregge” in Orotelli for Marco Bussu
7c+ - “Diritto a niente” in a first free ascent in a new area near Savona for Marco Bussu
7b/7b+ al Cubo (V. Aosta) for Matteo Cara

Real climbing

6c+ - “Senza parole” in Rocca Bagassa for Lorenzo Castaldi
6a - “Giornata di primavera” in Capo Caccia for Marco Marrosu