Rolando Larcher is
one of the most important Italian
climbers. In 1989, during his first
trip on the Island, he opened “Raoni”
in Cala Fuili, (grade 8b, today 8a).
It was the most difficult route in
the island and is today one of the
most longed-for pitches for climbers
from all over Europe. Ten years later
he was in the Gorroppu Gorges and
he opened, along with Vigiani, Hotel
Supramonte, once again the hardest
multi-pitch route in Sardinia and
Italy. Apart from these two master-pieces,
which represent a fundamental moment
in Italian climbing, Rolando is the
author of several 8a routes on sight
and some important first free ascents.
An exceptional personality!
you live ?
I live in Trento.
Do you love
your homeland or would you want to
live somewhere else ?
I love it and live happily there,
it fulfils all the needs connected
to my passions.
How did you
discover Sardinia ?
I discovered Sardinia in May, 1989,
during a climbing trip.
Do you come
back often ?
As soon as I can arrange it.
rocks have something special ?
LSardinian rocks are surrounded by
a wild landscape and an unmistakable
scent which comes from the Mediterranean
shrub, enhanced when it rains a bit,
this is what makes them special.
What if there
wasn’t the sea in Sardinia ?
It would be a pity, because you can’t
only live on rocks!!!!!
like to live on an island ?
I would live there if
there were also mountains, it’s the
only thing I could remark on.
impressed you the most ?
There are many places which impressed
me: Gorropu, for the wild feeling
it expresses; Capo Testa, for its
silence and the surreal atmosphere,
the “orientale sarda” the stretch
between Dorgali and Baunei, which
gives me the sensation of a frontier,
something very rare in Italy and which
I only felt in the American and African
a route which alone is worth a trip
to Sardinia ?
And a route
that you would like to repeat ?
I would like to repeat
Hotel Supramonte with the time and
smearing which are necessary for the
fifth pitch rotpunkt.
a place where you wouldn’t return
I have visited the entire island and
I honestly don’t remember a place
where I wouldn’t want to return.
you do if you lived on the island
I would be a thief, since on the mainland
I’m a policeman. I’m just joking,
I could maybe be a billiard player,
sometimes playing bowls, maybe throwing
a few pitches in the evening, when
the smearing is better.
Do you believe
that too many routes damage or increase
the value of a place ?
Routes must be opened in
an intelligent and logical way, I
believe that " two independent routes
are better than three compelled ones
". Therefore, I think that routes
can increase the value of an area;
deterioration can take place, but
it is mainly due to bad manners. Anyhow,
one thing I love in Sardinian cliffs
and walls is peacefulness, a priceless
and motivating feature; I believe
that if this should ever fail, I would
do the same.
Do you think
that there is enough space for everyone
on Sardinian rocks ?
I believe so, the raw material is
abundant, but we must always remember
that it cannot be renewed. If this
sport will continue in this direction
and there will not be some kind of
restriction, rocks will necessarily
wear out, we must remember to respect
trying not to dig them. This will
at least provide future generations
with some very difficult projects
And how long
will this last ?
Time will tell. I think there is more
time left comparing to other places,
due to the number of rocks and the
lucky mild inclination towards bolting.