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ARTHUR KUBISTA

Arthur Kubista, a very good climber from Vienna, has linked his name to the most famous one-throw routes in Sardinia. Arturo, as we call him here, regularly returns to the Island and regularly finds or bolts impossible projects, dedicating all his time and energy to these achievements. A climber with refined technique and gestures, Arthur keeps amazing us with the perseverance with which he achieves his projects, apparently impossible.
Arthur Kubista
Where do you live?
I live in Maria Enzersdorf, a town approx. 20 km south of Vienna.

Do you love your homeland or would you want to live somewhere else?
Yes, I love it because it fulfils all my wishes.

How did you discover Sardinia?
Thanks to an article in a climbing magazine in 1993, after that I left immediately for a climbing trip in the island.

Do you come back often?
When I can arrange it, approx. twice a year, about 50 % of the time I spend abroad.

Do Sardinian rocks have something special?
Certainly, Sardinia is like a small continent, there are rocks for all tastes and grades, and everything is nearby. It is a perfect land for winter climbing, not to mention the fascinating surrounding landscape. You feel much more free than on the mainland, where almost every small road is blocked, allowing free access to most of the wild places. There is still so much to discover and open…plenty of rocks. And there are friendly persons which make you feel at home!

What if there wasn’t the sea in Sardinia?
It wouldn’t have the charm of an island separated from the mainland: obviously there also is another side of the question and that slows down development... I like the cliffs on the sea, much more than the beaches, because I don’t like water activities. I can’t stand roasting on the beach or staying still without doing something...

Would you like to live on the island?
Yes indeed, at least for a few months or for some years…if only I could afford it!

Which place impressed you the most?
The Grotta di Millenium, a 50 or 70 m overhang!!! A magic place. But also some discoveries near Lanaitto.

Is there a route which is worth a trip to Sardinia alone?
There are many routes from grade 6 to 8. And many interesting projects... long routes in Supramonte on a wonderful limestone fascinate me.

And a route that you would like to repeat?
Yes, “Raga” and “Fantasia e Verita nel Tanca Farà” (8b/c, ndr), the most amazing routes in Isili, or some masterpiece at the “Ruota del Tempo”. A good opportunity to re-open a bottle of excellent Cannonau the evening to celebrate the event!

Where wouldn’t you return?
I don’t remember a place so horrible to not go back, although there are some areas which are polluted from an environmental point of view.

What would you do if you lived on the island?
I would like to help in developing climbing: first of all I would like to open new routes, like overhanging cliffs, and help to diffuse this sport, because there are too little Sardinian climbers, maybe with some course or seminar. It’s what I do now in Vienna...

Too many routes damage or increase the value of a place?
They definitely increase the value when they are marked in a correct way, respecting the environment and nature. They also increase the choice-range and allow everybody to place themselves correctly on the cliff and therefore preserve the calmness of the area.

Do you think that there is enough space for everybody on Sardinian rocks?
Absolutely. I would only want to say that I don’t approve those who dig possible lines in a natural way, even if this should happen in a far away future.

And how long will this last?
I don’t think it will change soon.

If you want to contact Arthur for courses or seminars his address is: a.kubista@utanet.at