Arthur Kubista, a
very good climber from Vienna, has
linked his name to the most famous
one-throw routes in Sardinia. Arturo,
as we call him here, regularly returns
to the Island and regularly finds
or bolts impossible projects, dedicating
all his time and energy to these achievements.
A climber with refined technique and
gestures, Arthur keeps amazing us
with the perseverance with which he
achieves his projects, apparently
I live in Maria Enzersdorf,
a town approx. 20 km south of Vienna.
Do you love
your homeland or would you want to
live somewhere else?
Yes, I love it because it fulfils
all my wishes.
How did you
Thanks to an article in
a climbing magazine in 1993, after
that I left immediately for a climbing
trip in the island.
Do you come
When I can arrange it,
approx. twice a year, about 50 % of
the time I spend abroad.
rocks have something special?
Certainly, Sardinia is
like a small continent, there are
rocks for all tastes and grades, and
everything is nearby. It is a perfect
land for winter climbing, not to mention
the fascinating surrounding landscape.
You feel much more free than on the
mainland, where almost every small
road is blocked, allowing free access
to most of the wild places. There
is still so much to discover and open…plenty
of rocks. And there are friendly persons
which make you feel at home!
What if there
wasn’t the sea in Sardinia?
It wouldn’t have the charm of an island
separated from the mainland: obviously
there also is another side of the
question and that slows down development...
I like the cliffs on the sea, much
more than the beaches, because I don’t
like water activities. I can’t stand
roasting on the beach or staying still
without doing something...
like to live on the island?
Yes indeed, at least for a few months
or for some years…if only I could
impressed you the most?
The Grotta di Millenium, a 50 or 70
m overhang!!! A magic place. But also
some discoveries near Lanaitto.
a route which is worth a trip to Sardinia
There are many routes from grade 6
to 8. And many interesting projects...
long routes in Supramonte on a wonderful
limestone fascinate me.
And a route
that you would like to repeat?
Yes, “Raga” and “Fantasia e Verita
nel Tanca Farà” (8b/c, ndr), the most
amazing routes in Isili, or some masterpiece
at the “Ruota del Tempo”. A good opportunity
to re-open a bottle of excellent Cannonau
the evening to celebrate the event!
I don’t remember a place
so horrible to not go back, although
there are some areas which are polluted
from an environmental point of view.
you do if you lived on the island?
I would like to help in
developing climbing: first of all
I would like to open new routes, like
overhanging cliffs, and help to diffuse
this sport, because there are too
little Sardinian climbers, maybe with
some course or seminar. It’s what
I do now in Vienna...
routes damage or increase the value
of a place?
They definitely increase
the value when they are marked in
a correct way, respecting the environment
and nature. They also increase the
choice-range and allow everybody to
place themselves correctly on the
cliff and therefore preserve the calmness
of the area.
Do you think
that there is enough space for everybody
on Sardinian rocks?
Absolutely. I would only
want to say that I don’t approve those
who dig possible lines in a natural
way, even if this should happen in
a far away future.
And how long
will this last?
I don’t think it will change soon.
If you want to contact Arthur for
courses or seminars his address is: