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Giorgio Mallucci

Roman, on the climbing scenes from almost 30 years, this fairly good climber-alpinist is deeply bound to Sardinia. He was the first one, in the ’70s, to try to climb the Aguglia, attempt which ended with a frightening flight and the loss of several pitons. Giorgio and his friend were left hanging on just one piton and decided that they would not tempt fate again. Giorgio has continued to open routes in Gran Sasso and on other mountains around the world, and obviously in Sardinia, where he returns regularly and where he has many friends among local climbers. It’ is therefore my pleasure to present this interview on Sardiniaclimb…

Giorgio Mallucci
Where do you live?
I live in Rome.

Do you love your homeland or would you want to live somewhere else?
I love my land very much, but it has changed under my feet. I would like to live in a more human place.

How did you discover Sardinia?
In 1958 , during a long camping trip with my father.

Do you come back often?
At least three times a year.

Do Sardinian rocks have something special?
The rocks themselves no, but they are set in a special context, creating magic places.

What if there wasn’t the sea in Sardinia?
It’s impossible, Sardinia is an indissoluble mix, where you can feel the strength of the sea from the inland and the strength of the inland from the sea.

Would you like to live on the island?
Yes

Which place impressed you the most?
Lula

Is there a route which is worth a trip to Sardinia alone?
More than one, for example on the pinnacle or on Punta Cusidore.

And a route that you would like to repeat?
”Sinfonia dei mulini a vento” (I am still sorry I was not the first one to climb it).

Where wouldn’t you return?
There are no places where I would not return, I have been coming back for years!

What would you do if you lived on the island?
I would wander around climbing and I would try to promote climbing, especially for the young.

Do you believe that too many routes damage or increase the value of an area?
It depends from the possibilities offered by the area, I believe we must find a reasonable compromise between the needs of climbers, the respect for the area and the logical character of the routes.

Do you think that there is enough space for everybody on Sardinian rocks?
Yes, however I believe that some adventure sites should be left. I have long-since been convinced that there should be no written guides for these places, and who opens routes should not be tempted to reveal them, leaving others the pleasure to discover them once again.

And how long will this last?
If what I said above should be done, for those sites forever. Aside from adventure, I believe there will be place for sport climbing for many years to go.