| 21/11/2005-
Oliena: Ugo Bertoni equipped a new route in Australia sector. The name
is "Maccio Maccione", the grade 7b+. Ugo, with Alessandro Mura, also equipped
a new route at Fuili. |
| | |
| 09/12/2005-
Isili: Maurizio Oviglia finished to bolt his old project "L''Eternauta",
an incredible horizontal roof of 15 m in Urania sector. |
| | |
| 21/11/2005-
Oliena: Ugo Bertoni equipped a new route in Australia sector. The name
is "Maccio Maccione", the grade 7b+. Ugo, with Alessandro Mura, also equipped
a new route at Fuili. |
| | |
| 05/12/2005-
Codula Fuili: Ugo Bertoni make the first RP of his new route "Les pedagogistes",
just on the right of "L''imposta". For Ugo the grade is F8a. |
| | |
| 21/11/2005-
Oliena: Ugo Bertoni equipped a new route in Australia sector. The name
is "Maccio Maccione", the grade 7b+. Ugo, with Alessandro Mura, also equipped
a new route at Fuili. |
| | |
| 22/11/2005-
Baunei: The new crag, equipped during the Rock Day, finished last sunday
by some climbers: Fabio Dessì, Diego Bellisai, Daniele Setzu, Giacomo and Silvia
Dessì. Now there are 14 routes. |
| | |
| | |
| 21/11/2005-
Oliena: Ugo Bertoni equipped a new route in Australia sector. The name
is "Maccio Maccione", the grade 7b+. Ugo, with Alessandro Mura, also equipped
a new route at Fuili. |
| | |
| 13/11/2005-
Baunei: During the Rock Day of yersterday, 30 climbers eqquipped together
a new crack in a rainy sunday. The new crag, with a beautiful limestone, will
be inaugurate 8 december. |
| | |
| 01/11/2005-
Surtana: Louis Piguet finisched his new route in Surtana, on the right
of The sound of silence. The name is "Paradiso", five pitches, 6a maximum, wonderful
rock! |
| | |
| 29/10/2005-
Buggerru: Flaviano Bessone we inform that the Swiss climbers Françoise
Tauxe and Louis Piguet equipped (from the top) "Thalassa", 90 m, 5c max, between
Riflessi Magici and Pista Ciclabile. Rappel on the route (70 m rope), bolts inox. |
| | |
| 24/10/2005-
Monte Arci (Oristano): Under the right area of the crag was built a sheepfold.
Now we invite all people to have attention and respect for the animals and for
the farmer. |
| | |
| 24/05/2005-
Monte Arci (Oristano): Under the right area of the crag was built a sheepfold.
Now we invite all people to have attention and respect for the animals and for
the farmer. |
| | |
| 24/05/2005-
Monte Arci (Oristano): Under the right area of the crag was built a sheepfold.
Now we invite all people to have attention and respect for the animals and for
the farmer. |
| | |
| 23/10/2005-
Punta Cusidore: Some climbers tell us that on the route "L''Ombra della
mia mano" three bolt are missing. For the moment it''s better to take nuts and
friends. |
| | |
| 20/10/2005-
Cala Gonone: Restrictive measures for Cala Fuili? This year has seen an
exceptional and satisfactory multitude of climbers at Cala Fuili and this has
certainly been a positive factor. But, on the other hand, some unpleasant episodes
have occurred among the climbers, who, despite the discouragements of the local
tour guides, have repeatedly light fires, slept in the caves of the Codula, forced
the entrance to the caves closed by the local speleologists and left rubbish everywhere.
The town councillor responsible for the tourism is strictly convinced that some
restrictive measures have to be taken to protect these places. Furthermore unpleasant
quarrels have been reported to have occurred between climbers and the farmer of
Margheddie for the continuous transit of vans on the very narrow and dirt road
which leads up to the cliffs of Margheddie, Millenium and the long routes on the
cliffs. We appeal to the sense of responsibility of everybody to respect these
places, so as to avoid in the future, the closeness, from the town administration,
of these mentioned cliffs. |
| | |
| 20/10/2005-
Cala Gonone: In the Poltrona crag, Jimmy Palermo re-equipped "Mercante
di Venezia" and Giampaolo Mocci and Maurizio Oviglia added two pitches to the
famous route Deutsch Wall (Mariacher wall). The new pitches, on the final overhangs,
are 6b and 6b+. |
| | |
| 18/10/2005-
The Masua cliff is closed due to a fallen masses. |
| | |
| 10/10/2005-
Gole di Gorroppu: Other free repetition of Hotel Supramonte by Guido Cortese.
Guido worked the route in the last year; now he climb the route in two days, without
fixed rope and sleeping at the seven belay. |
| | |
| 04/10/2005-
Aguglia di Goloritzè (Baunei): Riccardo Lami (ten year sold) had climbed
Easy Gymnopedie whit his father, but Riccardo clined the hard pitch in Rotpuntk!!!
Congratulations! |
| | |
| 03/10/2005-
Cala Gonone: Caroline Ciavaldini (20 years old) had onsighted "Il vecchio
e il mare", 8b, in the Millennium cave (www.8a.nu). It not clear if Caroline had
climbed the enterely route (60m, 8b) or only until the first belay (8a). In all
case...congratulations! |
| | |
| 01/10/2005-
Codula di Luna (Baunei): Nicola Sartori, with his wife Claudia, make the
first free repetition of "Spirito selvaggio", the harder roite of the zone (Larcher/Oviglia
2003). Nicola think that the second pitch is 8a+, and say of a beautiful route.
Mario Pelfini make instead the first repetition of "Nuvolari". |
| | |
| 28/09/2005-
Punta Pilocca: Corrado Pibiri send a new traverse, start at the first bolt
of Priscilla and end at the belay of "Bruciate i Piromani". The bolts was painted
of yellow, the grade is 6a, 15 quickdraws. |
| | |
| 27/09/2005-
Genna Croce (Urzulei): The route ?Prova a prendermi?, equipped by Maurizio
Oviglia ed Eugenio Pinotti are extended. The route now reach the 7c on 35 mt,
and is freed in flash by Erik Svab and climbed also by Maurizio. |
| | |
| 25/09/2005-
Codula Fuili (Cala Gonone): Another route equipped byMaurizio Oviglia,
in Thailandia sector. The route was called ?Arabesque? and reach 7a. |
| | |
| 22/09/2005-
Cala Domestica (Iglesias): Bruno Fonnesu equipped a new route near Cala
Domestica. The route, named ?Brivido Blu? present three pitches with maximum 6a+ |
| | |
| 20/09/2005-
Codula di Luna (Baunei): Guido Cavagnero opened a new route in solo on
the big face of Bacu Esone, 40 minuti from Teletottes. The route was called "Donneneunulitru"
and is around 6c. Other info: http://www.sardiniaclimb.com/Forum/viewtopic.php?t=870 |
| | |
| 14/09/2005-
Monte Acuto (Berchidda: Marco Marrosu and Alessandro Pilloni opened a
new traditional route on the north face of Monte Acuto. The new route is called
"Via dei vigliacchi", 145 m of lenght and VI+ (UIAA) max |
| | |
| 12/09/2005-
Genna Croce (Urzulei): News from this good crag. Maurizio Oviglia bolt
and climb free "Dottor Dream", a long sustained pitch of 40 m (7c+). Giuseppe
Garippa and Adriano Carnati equipped "Ale e Franz", freed by Garippa (8a). |
| | |
| 10/09/2005-
Monte Pinu (Olbia): Andrea Mannias start to equip a new crag in Monte Pinu
area. The first route is “Desert Blue” (7a), equipped and climb free
by Andrea. |
| | |
| 08/09/2005-
Codula di Luna (Baunei): Mario Pelfini with Beccari and Garanzini openend
a new route on the cliff called "S''Orcu", on the right of "Nuvolari". The new
route was called "Alcool, tabacco e Venere", with 7a max, 6c+ obl. on 200 m of
lenght. The route is bolted (spaced) but are necessary friend until number 4 (camalot). |
| | |
| 07/09/2005-
Codula Fuili (Cala Gonone): Maurizio Oviglia equipped a new route in Thailandia
area, named “Le invasioni barbariche”. The route was climbed free
by Maurizio and graded 7b. |
| | |
| 07/09/2005-
Serra Oseli (Urzulei): Gianni Cattaino equipped a new route in the slab
of right area, called ?Placca di Yang?. The name of this route is ?Carloforte,
6 settembre 1995?, witch was climbed on sight for the first time by Maurizio Oviglia
and graded 7b. Maurizio continued the equipment of ?Grotta di Yin? bolting bottom
up ?Down emotivo?, still not climbed free. |
| | |
| 05/09/2005-
Castilandia (Domusnovas): Maissimo Gessa and Daniele Setzu continued the
restyling of this crag extending "Il mio sole" and "Sblattox". The last one changed
from 6b to 6b+. |
| | |
| 02/09/2005-
Baunei: Manolo free three routes in Braccio di Ferro area, Olivia and Pisellino,
climbed on sight, 7c/7c+ and Poldo 8a. |
| | |
| 31/08/2005-
Domusnovas, Castilandia: Massimo Gessa and Maurizio Oviglia requipped "Tortura
cinese" direct, now 7b on the line of bolt. On the right a new good route, "Harakiri",
7a with a particoular move.... |
| | |
| 30/08/2005-
Furtei (CA): Two news routes in this crag for Elio Gola: "il vecchio" 7a
ad a variant of Johnatan Livingstone |
| | |
| 28/08/2005-
ATTENTION: Don''t mark the hold in our crag, please!! In this summer we
have seen a marked holds also on the five grade! We think that it is a behaviour
not correct to towards want to try on sight the same routes. We pray you of to
erase the signs. Thank you |
| | |
| 26/08/2005-
Domusnovas: Massimo Gessa added two routes in Pescheria sector: "Cozze"
and "Arselle", 5b and 6a |
| | |
| 24/08/2005-
Gorroppu: New route "plaisir" opened by Oviglia and Mocci on the north
face of the canyon. The new route, called "Ziu Basili", run on the left of "Festen".
270 mt of lenght, the difficulties reach the 6b+ (6a obl) on a good grey rock.
The route is enterely bolted. In august the face is in shadow all day. |
| | |
| 17/08/2005-
Masua: New routes for the Padovan climber Andrea Minetto, in the Masua
towers area. Two 6b routes, "Omino bianco" and "Life size". |
| | |
| 07/08/2005-
I Giganti, Ossi (SS) Marcello Mariano opened three new routes in this new
crag: "La scimmia indovina" 6c, mt 16, "Sancio Panza" 7a mt 21 and "Mulini a vento",
probably 7b (n.l.), 22 meter |
| | |
| 03/08/2005-
Tana delle tigri (Domusnovas): Matteo Marini make the first ascension of
the Om nama shivaya extension, called OM. The grade, for Matteo, is 8a+. |
| | |
| 22/07/2005-
Padru (Olbia): Alessandro Gogna and Marco Marrosu termined their try on
the west face of Pta dei banditi. The route, called "Fiato Sospeso", is a traditional
route with some sections of VI+ no protected. The route reach VII of difficulty
and 250 m of lenght |
| | |
| 15/07/2005-
Urzulei: Maurizio Oviglia begin to bolt a new overhanging cave down Serra
Oseli. For the moment two easy routes, Iris (6b+) and Malotiempo (6b+). |
| | |
| 09/07/2005-
Domusnovas: for the meeting NO BIG DOMUSNOVAS Pietra di luna realized two
littles climbing guides of Canneland, Cartoonia and Castilandia.The climbing guides
are available for free at bar/pizzeria Perda ‘e Cerbu at the entrance of
San Giovanni caves |
| | |
| 07/07/2005-
San Nicolò (Buggerru): Some new routes in this good gorge, opened by Mariano
Zurru, the "teste calde" team and the swiss climber Pascal. On the Tower two good
routes, 7a+ and 7b |
| | |
| 07/07/2005-
Arcadio (Cala Gonone): The Nuoro Climbers signalized that on the route
BROD OY in ARCADIO crag, there is a nest of hawk with little ones . For this do
not climb on this route. Thank you! |
| | |
| 06/07/2005-
Serra Oseli (Urzulei): Maurizio Oviglia make the first free ascent of "Mascalzone
latino" (6c+) and "I favolosi anni ''80", (7c) on the right crag. Eugenio Pinotti,
Enzo Ramelli e Piero Repetti opened a trad route on the classical wall, "Bissaboga",
160 m, 5c/6a. only one pg in place. |
| | |
| 04/07/2005-
Codula Fuili (Cala Gonone): In Thailandia sector Eugenio Pinotti bolted
"Nuoresi sempre appesi" (6c+) and "Piacentini ladri e assassini" (6b+) two good
slab routes. In front "Piemontese falso cortese" (6b) and "Vado, la chiodo e torno"
(6a). On the same side, on the left, Maurizio Oviglia opened "Anatema", (7a/b).
|
| | |
| 01/07/2005-
Cala Gonone: Roberto Vigiani bolted a new hard project on the Chorro Cliff
naamed "catalicammello". |
| | |
| 01/07/2004-
Cala Gonone: Roberto Vigiani bolted a new hard project on the Chorro Cliff
naamed "catalicammello". |
| | |
| 29/06/2005-
Canneland (Domusnovas): We ask to climbers who climb in Canneland and Bronx
area, to park our car in the proper place and not at the entrance of the cave.
Thank you |
| | |
| 27/06/2005-
Codula di Luna (Baunei): Maurizio Oviglia and Eugenio Pinotti equipped
a newmultipitch route on Donneneittu wall. The new route, Linea Blu, have 160m
of lenght, 7a+ max, 6c obligatory, enterely bolted |
| | |
| 24/06/2005-
Urzulei: Maurizio Oviglia and Eugenio Pinotti starting to bolt a new cliff
in Serra Oseli. The climb is here more technical than Genna Croce, the rock is
very beatiful |
| | |
| 22/06/2005-
Oliena: Some new multipitches routes opened by Lorenzo Nadali and his friends
in Lanaitto Valley. The topos of the routes are available at the IRIS CAFE'' in
Cala Gonone. |
| | |
| 20/06/2005-
Canneland (Domusnovas): Some changes are apported on the route Blacksheep.
Now is possible to climb the route from the bottom of the river (6c+) or from
the railing (6c). The end of the route is the same of Non ti muovere |
| | |
| 18/06/2005-
Surtana (Dorgali): The swiss climber Louis Piguet equipped "Paradiso" on
the right of "The sound of silence" (5c, 6a, 5c). Lousi also equipped a new route
in Silja sector, Cala Fuili, and re-equipped some routes of this area. Thank you
Louis! |
| | |
| 16/06/2005-
Cala Gonone: Roberto Vigiani make the first RP of "Rosa Liboin", 8a, on
the Chorro Cave. Roberto extend also El Chorro (7c) and M.lle Toxine (7b+) |
| | |
| 11/06/2005-
Domusnovas: New route in Cannelaand for Maurizio Oviglia, "Dobermann",
a long pitch (45 m!!) of 7c. |
| | |
| 10/06/2005-
Codula di luna:Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Simone Sarti finished
a new route on the new wall. The route named "Nuovolari", 240 m, 7a+ max, 6c+
obl., enterely bolted but very exposed... |
| | |
| 06/06/2005-
Dorgali:: New sector on the right of Dorgali cliff. There are ten overhang
routes, from 6a to 7b. Some routes present a sharp holds. |
| | |
| 27/05/2005-
Isili: G. Mocci e M. Oviglia equipped 5 new routes in Corvo Spaziale area:
Dr. Jackill (7a+), Mr Hyde (7a), Belfagor (6c+), Cardellino (6b) and Is Paras
(6a+). The route are opened with a greaat contribute of Hotel del Cardellino,
Isili. |
| | |
| 26/05/2005-
Masua:>/B> New sector bolted by Fonnesu and Bessone on the Masua Towers, on
the right of the old route Giochi al sole. There are nine good routes, from 5c
to 6c+ |
| | |
| 24/05/2005-
Codula Fuili, Cala Gonone: Rolando Larcher send the RP of "Sapientino"
is old project in the Grotta dei Bimbi. Rolando proposed 8c, the third of Sardinia |
| | |
| 17/05/2005-
Hotel Supramonte, rectification: After some verification and controversial,
it seem that the first on sight of this route it is not still climbed. Steve Mc
Clure had in fact climbed the fifth pitch (now graded 8a+) in flash and the route
in sections of some days. We remember to the public that Yann Guesquiers, in 2001,
climbed the entirely route in one day, without fixed ropes, climbing on sight
the first three pitches and at the first attempt the 4th and the 5th. |
| | |
| 15/05/2005-
Seui: Maurizio Oviglia and Giampaolo Mocci finished a new crag in Mount
Tonneri zone. The new crag present 13 routes from 4c to 6b+. The rock is the same
than jerzu, the quote 1000 m and the esposition is north |
| | |
| 12/05/2005-
Domusnovas: Matteo Marini re-free Engaku Taino (ruota del Tempo) after
a broken hold. The grade is now 8a+. |
| | |
| 09/05/2005-
Gorroppu: from the web site planetfear.com is Steve Mac Clure the first
climber to climb onsight Hotel Supramonte. More details on www.planetfear.com |
| | |
| 09/05/2005-
Surtana: New route just on the right of "The sound of silence", probably
equipped by the strangers climbers. The new route, 3 pitches of long, is named
"Paradiso" |
| | |
| 30/04/2005-
Villagrande Strisaili: Giorgio Caddeo and Maurizio Oviglia finished to
bolt a new red porphyry crag in locality Praidas, on the road that from Villagrande
reach Talana. There are 16 routes, from 5a to 7b. It is better to climb after
the 14 pm, in the shadow. |
| | |
| 28/04/2005-
Gorroppu, Hotel Supramonte: Another completely free ascent of Hotel Supramonte,
one on the most famous modern mutipitch in the word. This one is the turn of Philippe
Mussatto, 46 year old, that free the route at the first try, after falled on sight
like than his compatriot Yann Ghesquiers. At this moment nobody have climbed the
route onsight, while the climbers that had climbed free the route are, at today,
Pietro Dal Prà, Beat Kammerlander, Yann Guesquiers, Daniel Dulac, Daniel Andrada,
Bubu Bole, Martina Cufar, Marko Lukich and Philippe Mussatto. In this moment on
the route there is Steve Mc Clure. Mussatto had climbed also "Le lion de Panhir",
8b+ in Millennium cave, at the first try |
| | |
| 19/04/2005-
Domusnovas: First RP for Philippe Mussatto on "La casa degli orrori" in
the Bronx sector. The grade proposed is 8a+. Philippe, during an on sight ascent
of Engaku taino (Ruota del Tempo, 8a/8a+) broken the last hold of the route. For
the moment the route is harder. |
| | |
| 16/04/2005-
Chinatown (Domusnovas): Two new routes equipped by Maurizio Oviglia in
the Rifondazione Strapiombista sector, a 5c+ and 6c+. |
| | |
| 06/04/2005-
B>San Teodoro: The boulder area of San Teodoro (Pietra di Luna, page 360) is closed
for some problems with a ground proprietary. |
| | |
| 25/03/2005-
Chinatown: Other two routes in Rifondazione strapiombista sector for Maurizio
Oviglia. "Soviet" (6b+) and "Matrioska multijet" (6b). |
| | |
| 23/03/2005-
Isili: Seven new routes in the Paese dei Nuraghi sector. |
| | |
| 21/03/2005-
Chinatown: New route in Rifondazione area for Maurizio Oviglia. For "Cometa
Rossa", 30 m, Maurizio propose 7a+/7b. |
| | |
| 21/03/2004-
Chinatown: New route in Rifondazione area for Maurizio Oviglia. For "Cometa
Rossa", 30 m, Maurizio propose 7a+/7b. |
| | |
| 17/03/2005-
Isili: Simone Sarti and Maurizio Oviglia equipped a great and very esthetical
new route in Urania. The route, named "Lo squalo" (the shark), was climbing free
by Simone and graded 7b. A future classic of Isili! |
| | |
| 15/03/2005-
Monte Ruiu (S. Maria Coghinas, SS): Another new route for Marco Marrosu
and Luca Montanaro on this granithic mountain. 220 m of lenght, IV+ UIAA |
| | |
| 14/03/2005-
Isili: Fabrizio Dessì make the first RP of the new Body Balance at Urania.
The grade proposed is 7a+. |
| | |
| 11/03/2005-
Baunei: Oviglia an Mocci re-equipped "Mediterraneo" route on the Punta
Giradili. They also opened a deautiful variant on the last pitch (6c). |
| | |
| 02/03/2005-
Monte Ruju (SS): New traditional route opened by Marco marrosu and Roberto
Masia, on the S face of Monte Ruju |
| | |
| 01/03/2005-
Baunei: Maurizio Oviglia finished to bolt the new crag inside the touristic
port of Santa Maria Navarrese. Now there are 16 routes, from 4b to 7b. Soon on
this web site the topos |
| | |
| 11/02/2005-
Ulassai: A new depliant with all climbing and touristic possibilities in
this area (english version) were finally printed in the last days. Who is interested
please contact sumarmuri@tiscali.it |
| | |
| 10/02/2005-
Isili: Others three new routes in the Corvo Spaziale area. The grade is
about 6a/6b. |
| | |
| 08/02/2005-
Masua: Another route for Bruno Fonnesu in Castello dell''Iride cliff: "Stampu"
(6a+) |
| | |
| 28/01/2005-
Isili: Two new routes in the left sector of Urania, opened by Oviglia. |
| | |
| 23/01/2005-
Masua: New route in Castello dell''Iride, on the right of Cavallo Bendato.
The name is "Flash" and the grade is 6a+. |
| | |
| 19/01/2005-
Quirra: Matteo Marini make the first RP of "Insensatez", the last route
equipped in this crag. |
| | |
| 11/01/2005-
Monte Albo: Another trad route for Lorenzo Castaldi and Marco Marrosu,
on the Torre delle capre. The new route named "Tranello alle porte" reach 180
of lenght and VII+ of difficulty |
| | |
| 09/01/2005-
Dorgali During the inundation of last mounth, the bridge of Sa Barva was
destroyed by the water. Now the access for Gorroppu, Oddeu and Surtana is changed.
It seems that there is a ford in front of Surtana, waited a new bridge... |
| | |
| 09/01/2005-
Dorgali During the inundation of last mounth, the bridge of Sa Barva was
destroyed by the water. Now the access for Gorroppu, Oddeu and Surtana is changed.
It seems that there is a ford in front of Surtana, waited a new bridge... |
| | |
| 05/01/2005-
Punta Cusidore: New traditional route on the west face of this mountain,
opened the last day of year by Lorenzo castaldi and Marco Marrosu. The new route
"Sole d''inverno", run on the pillar imlmediately on the left of the west face.
The route have 185 m of lenght and reach the VII-. |
| |
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