Climbing Areas
Sardiniaclimb – FAQ


1) I climb max 6a, where do you suggest I go?
There are 3 good areas: Cala Gonone, Masua and Santa Maria Navarrese. All three are by the sea.

2) Which are the best easy crags in Sardinia?
Budinetto, La Poltrona and Margheddie at Cala Gonone. Dorgali. Il Porto and Villaggio Gallico at Santa Maria Navarrese, Castello dell'Iride at Masua, Puerto Escondido and Castilandia at Domusnovas, Punta Pilocca around Iglesias.

3) I like nice rock and easy routes, which are the best places?
Punta Pilocca, Masua and La Poltrona. Castilandia at Domusnovas and Villaggio Gallico at Baunei.

4) And crags less well-known?
At Roccadoria, just south of Alghero, there are quite a few easy routes. In Ogliastra the Porto of Santa Maria and the little crag at Seui. The Canyon at Ulassai. At Cala Gonone Buchi Arta, Sa Preta Istampata at Galtellì. Near to Masua the new crag of Gutturu Cardaxius.

5) Are there crags suitable for kids’ climbing?
The only ones bolted for this purpose are at Cala Fuili (Cala Gonone) above the stairs that go down to the beach and at Domusnovas, at the entry to and exit from the Grotta di San Giovanni.

6) Which is the best crag for someone just starting to climb?
Punta Pilocca in the south, La Poltrona and Budinetto at Cala Gonone.

7) I’ve hearc of Masua, which is the best crag?
Without doubt il Castello dell'Iride. Currently the crag is off-limits, but climbing is tolerated.

8) At Cala Gonone, which crags is it worth visiting?
Beyond Budinetto e La Poltrona, Buchi Arta, which is kept a bit secret, Margheddie, Dorgali, the beach at Cala Luna.

9) Is it worth visting Ogliastra? At Isili are there easy routes?
Without a doubt. Beyond the Baunei area, which is quickly gaining popularity, at Ulassai, Seui, and Villagrande there are many easy routes. At Isili there are few easy routes and they are not very good. You need to be able to climb 6a minimum.

10) I like the modern long routes, 6b max, which are the best ones?

Without doubt at Surtana, near Dorgali. Other routes of this grade are at Buggerru, Villacidro e Urzulei. All these other routes need a higher grade but you can second them if you can climb well 6a.

(Thanks to the British climber Peter Herold who lives in Ogliastra for the translation. Contact Peter for more info