1)
What type of rock is it in Sardinia? In
Sardinia there are various types of rock,
but it’s the limestone that has made
Sardinia known world-wide. It’s generally
very good quality, similar to that of Provence
in France. In the north of the island you
find as well granite and, in some limited
areas, basalt.
2) What type of climbing
is there? The
majority of climbs are sport climbs. There
are very many crags spread throughout the
whole island. Nevertheless and above all
in the centre-east area of the island called
Supramonte there are quite a few multi-pitch
sports routes. You can also do alpine rock
climbing, most famously in Gallura (north)
and also in Supramonte. Bouldering is a
relatively recent discipline, and the best
places are around Villasimius (South), Nuoro
(centre) and Gallura (North).
3) Are the routes
bolted? All
the sports climbing routes are bolted to
modern-day standards of safety. In the most
popular venues, the bolting is periodically
checked. On the modern long multipitch routes,
the bolts are more widely-spaced and you
should find out about the difficulties to
avoid nasty surprises. The alpine routes
are NOT bolted and you should take pegs,
peg hammer and removable protection (Friends/nuts).
4) If I do sport climbing,
what are the best places? There
are 4 most famous areas for sport climbing:
Cala Gonone, Jerzu, Isili and the Iglesiente,
around Iglesias. Recently the Sassari-Alghero
area is being added to this list and you
shouldn’t overlook some splendid crags
such as Quirra or the recently-developed
crags near Urzulei and Baunei.
5) I like alpine routes
and hate bolts, where should I go? For
the Alpine-type routes, the best area is
still the Supramonte, with long routes similar
to those you find in the Dolomites, but
with much better rock. In Gallura you can
also find some very good routes. The modern
multipitch routes are concentrated in the
triangle formed by the villages of Oliena,
Dorgali and Baunei. Others, but generally
shorter, are further south around Iglesias.
6) I climb mainly
easy routes (up to 6a), where’s best? The areas of Cala
Gonone, Baunei and Masua (Iglesias) offer
a wide range of easy and well-bolted crags.
In terms of multipitches, the only easy
areas are Cala Gonone (Poltrona) or Dorgali
(Surtana).
7) I love high-level
sport climbing, which are the best crags?
The best crags
are without doubt Isili, Cala Gonone, Jerzu,
Domusnovas and Quirra. At Isili and Quirra
the climbing is steep and stenuous, at Jerzu
it’s generally more technical. In
the other areas you find a bit of everything.
8) I’d like
a place to climb by the sea, what would
you advise? Without doubt
Cala Gonone or Masua. Other areas are becoming
established, such as Santa Maria Navarrese
(Baunei) and Alghero. In these places you
can rent apartments or make use of the numerous
B&B/Agriturismi (farm holidays).
9) I’m with
my family. They don’t climb and want
a beach holiday, where can I find someone
to climb with for a few hours? The best place
is Cala Gonone where you can always find
someone, especially in the months May-June
and September-October. Climbers usually
meet up in the bars, on the beach or at
the campsite.
10) I’m undecided where to go, between
Kalymnos, the Balearics and Sardinia. What’s
a good reason for choosing Sardinia?
Sardinia is much
bigger than the other classic destinations
for a climbing holiday. There’s more
choice and also many non-climbing things
to see and do. In addition, the sea in Sardinia
is the best!
(Thanks
to the British climber Peter Herold who
lives in Ogliastra for the translation.
Contact Peter for more info www.peteranne.it)
