Climbing Areas

Bruncu Nieddu

One of the questions people more often asked me is about the reasons that spur me on to perform solitary climbs. Lack of mates? Need to be the protagonist or of intimism? Madness? I will try to answer here. Solitary climbs has always been part of my alpinism: I have always felt well alone, either walking, making ski-alpinism or climbing; I can certainly assert that solitude belongs to my nature, even if I I'm pleased to stay with friends and my dear ones. When I started climbing, I thought trying to climb alone, as soon as I understood I could do it, was normal. They were rocks at first, then gradually higher walls. I have performed solitary integral climb, even on cliffs, up to 6b+, but I soon realised that the true solitary climb is in the mountains, on a long track, better where you don't know the route by heart. After some repetitions I opened up some ways, being free-solo, in the mountains not long after: people know almost nothing about this because at that time I thought it wasn't right to publicise that kind of activity. I carried on that kind of activity, spurred on by strong personal reasons and, I am not ashamed to tell it, also by life crisis. I've recently started my solitary activity again, even if I have never completely stopped. I have chosen the (partial) auto-assurance (AUTOASSICURAZIONE?) as I am more mature now and I have a family, as during the repetition (1998) and first solitary of the Manera-Bonis route to Monte Castello (Gran Paradiso): I however risked more than it was necessary because of the partially wet route. The solitary with drill and bolt was the only one I hadn't tried yet and it was natural I would sooner or later try a new track in that style which had been recently showed by my friend Rolland Larches with his astonishing performance, "Solitary wolf" and "Life that will come". At the end of this new adventure, I can only say this one has been without doubt the most tiring and exacting among all the solitary ascents I overtook. That can seem strange, if one thinks that the route is in Sardinia, without objective dangers, at one-hour time from the car and is also bolt protected! That climb on the contrary required my complete psychophysical pains, even if it wasn't exhausting like an integral climb: the effort of carrying all the equipment by myself, the difficulties and the stress because I had to remain concentrated on the moves all day long, the continuous difficulties without even a pause, well, all these things required five days of efforts and I came back completely exhausted more than one time. The strictly personal satisfaction remains, of having lived another experience and of a new entirely bolted route. A lot of people will appreciate it for that reason, perhaps without even vaguely imaging the effort it has required. The absence of a direct comparison with "others" and the "total" relation, even if it is for some aspects exasperated, which is established between you and the mountain is without doubt the real spark that spurs me on to undertake deeds like these, even if they could appear foolish at the first sight…. Maurizio Oviglia