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Maurizio
Oviglia brought a new track to conclusion: he climbed
alone the overhanging northwest wall of Bruncu Nieddu
in the Supramonte of Oliena in August. Maurizio assured
himself with the gri-gri modified method during all the
phases of the ascent, while the opening style was as always
that of the climbing without aid climbing moves in the
sections between one bolt and another. The new track,
270 meters long, proposes compulsory difficulties of 6b/c
but a considerable continuity: five pitches out of eight
are superior to 7a and the remaining three pitches are
over the 6b+. The new track has been called " Star of
Blood", being inspired by a beautiful mural at Orgorsolo,
which recall the so-called "accidental deaths". Then Maurizio
Oviglia free climbed the track with Simone Sarti, who
has among other things covered the entire itinerary at
sight. The greatest difficulties were in the second and
third picthes, 7b+ and 7b respectively, over a continuous
overhang of unusual beauty. During the solitary ascent
something didn't go smoothly: Maurizio threw off for more
than 10 metres, because of the break of the straps of
the cliff the second day: he fortunately had no consequences
but was only frightened! One can then say that the gri-gri
method works.
The PROTAGONIST'S
COMMENTS
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