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Mythical ways, beautiful ways



Ghoan (5a), Bruno Fonnesu
Ghoan is a quite recent route, good for beginners. It’s a sample of the wonderful rock of Masua, and that is why it is very frequented from German families and their childrens. A little jewel, pity it is so short!

Supergulp (5c+), Maurizio Oviglia and Raimondo Liggi
With no doubt one of the most beautiful among easy routes in Sardinia, Supergulp is famous for its amazing chalk rocks, as big as glasses.
From the bottom it is not particularly appealing, but climbing it is a show. Attended by Top climbers that go there with their girlfriends… the little cave at half way must have seen all sort of things!

Future Woman (6a), Bruno Fonnesu
Congratulations to Bruno Fonnesu, who has been able to find out this amazing 6a, left ignored for 20 years! Climb in dihedral on big holds, never uninteresting.

Demian (6a+), Maurizio Oviglia
Demian is a very peculiar route: it reaches with an intelligent traverse a smooth, white slab, with clean cracks and blades.. In origin, it was equipped with few pitons and it was feared a little frequented. Today it’s seldom re-considered because of its refined route, but it is worth climbing for its historical character..

Non desiderare la donna d’altri (6a+), Enzo Lecis
One of the most frequented routes, the holes festival! Long, homogeneous, on gorgeous rocks, what would do like more? Its name comes from the Commandment Enzo has disobeyed most, almost for sure…


Camilla Strilla (6b), Bruno Fonnesu
A long journey of 35 meters! This recent route is one of the most beautiful novelties of the cliff, a nice discovery for everybody and, at the same time, a very desired route!


Body and soul (6b+), Maurizio Oviglia and Enzo Lecis
Historical route with difficult moves, but beautiful movements. Once it was feared, but today Body and soul has a bit “disappeared” among the latest routes born. As a climb, it is never expected, and makes even the best climbers think.


Marcello Mundula su Non desiderare la donna d'altri (6a+),
Photo Mattia Vaccal

Piticheddu ma mannu (6b/c), Bruno Fonnesu
Another good intuition of Fonnesu in an area that seemed saturated. Various climb on a vertical wall, a nice route in many senses.

Chi vola vale (7a), Flaviano Bessone
Atypical brown rock, but a good and various climb. A good pitch, worth repeating several times.

Tramonto Rosso (7c, 8a), Svaluto Moreolo/Oviglia
An amazing wall, definitely one of the thougher slabs of the island. The 7c version is the most logical, but to succeed in the 8a is the icing on the cake. A climb of technique and fingers, with very peculiar movements at the bottom. It’s going to be a “cult” route almost for sure.


Cecilia Marchi su Supergulp (6a),
Foto Mattia Vacca

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