Name:
KILL BILL
Year of Production: summer 2004
Set: Parete del Sol Levante, Masua, Sardegna
Directed by: Giorgio Caddeo
Subject: from an idea of Maurizio Oviglia
Main Actors: Giorgio Caddeo e Vincenzo
Carcangiu Walk on (very rare): the drill
Plot: the route follows the very
evident, beautiful and linear crack. Up to today,
it has been incredibly left out of the adjacent
routes by the first climbers (with bolts). The
idea is to offer a route that helps the public
to get familiar with nuts and friends, having
one or two bolts for security reason, in case
none of the friends have been fixed properly,
and the spectator falls like Willy Coyote... The
spectator will be led by the director along the
crack, and images and movements will flow gently
and never brutally, in a quite elegant crack A
great adventure in the heart of Masua, now a climbing
spot devoted to sporting climb!!
Develpoment:
the route is 140 m long and it is on left of "Arancia
meccanica" And of the right of "Eppure il vento
soffia ancora". You need some friends (you should
double medium and thick measures) Nuts are useful,
but not necessary Better to have a helmet, two
ropes 50 and 60 m long. The route is a RS1. Stops
with bolts. .
Climb
the route on the left side, protected by good little
cracks until you get to a little terrace, S1 (30
m, from 4c to 5b, 1 bolt). Climb a short wall and
enter a crack. Cross a difficult pass (6a+), protected
by two bolts. Keep on going in the crack up to the
stop (S2 30 m). Cover the crack, now wide, with
a pleasant climb (5c, 1 spit) up to the terrace
(S3, 30 m). Keep on following the linear and wide
crack, leaving from a precipice (3 spit, dal 6a
al 6b), having a stop at the junipar at the end
of the route (S4, 50 m). Descents advised on Arancia
Meccanica
Notes:
route is candidate to the Oscar award.
