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ROCK: Excellent quality
flaked limestone, with concretions and flutes; overhanging
and vertical in the central part, more leaning in
the left sector.
STYLE : Muro dei Folletti offers excellent
holds, mainly athletic on vertical walls from 25
to 30 metres: a fairly good continuity is required…
Protection: 10 mm inox spit fix and chains
at belas on all routes; the classical “Geometria
di un Sorriso” is partly equipped with a piton in
the key part, but nuts and slings are useful.
Sun: West: the wall is exposed to the sun
from 11.00 to sunset.
ACCESS: As for Punta Pilocca (see Pietra
di Luna): coming from Domusnovas, pass the ghost
village of Arenas, leave the following picnic area
and spring on the left, after about 100m park your
car near a left-turning bend, beneath the large
oak trees. Find the path on the right and follow
it (red and white signs) first inside the forest,
then coasting the stone quarry (beware not to cause
rocks to fall on the lower part of the path!) until
you reach the wall (15 min).
THE ROUTES (names at the feet of the routes):
the so called “Settore Fidanzate”, at the far left
side of the wall, offers the three most human and
reasonable climbs:
1
- FEFFOLA VADO A SCALARE !
5b / 20mt
slab with holes
2 -LA SAGA DEI PISTIS
5a
/ 20m
Straight wall and exit on slab
3 - SETTANTA ALLA SETTIMANA
5c / 20mt
Small passages and lunar final
On the nice grey wall:
4 - GEOMETRIA DI UN SORRISO
VI / 70mt-nuts
Interesting vertical flakes…
5 - TUTTI GLI UOMINI DEL PRESIDENTE 6a
/ 25mt
Begins on slab, then the wall straightens becoming
athletic
6 - I SOLITI STRONZETTI
6a / 25mt
Usual change in inclination and difficult move
7 - MOVIGLI@ ON THE NET
6a+ / 25mt
Continuous and technical, more athletic at the end
8 - PERFORATORI KOMBATTENTI
6b+ / 25mt
Fairly hard beginning, disguised by a deceiving
perspective
Once the biceps are warm, if you love flutes, here
are the overhanging routes:
9 - ROMANTICI & CORAGGIOSI
6c+ / 30mt
Beautiful continuous and homogeneous route
10 - LEGITTIMO SOSPETTO
7a / 30mt
Long lock-ups
11 - TZIU GIANKY
7b / 30mt
Complete route: boulder, physical holes and technical
exit!
12 - I MUSCOLI DEL KAPITANO
7a+ / 30mt
Another nice route: physical flute and holes and
crimpers in the end
13 - THE PREMIER
6c+ / 30mt
The must, a 20 m great flute!
A bit more technical, always slightly overhanging:
14 - LENINGRADO
6c+ / 30mt
Psiko route on small crimpers, face it only if you
are sure of yourself
15 - GENTLE GIANT
6c/c+ / 25mt
Nice and continuous wall on crimpers variable in
size
Again overhanging, but a bit harder:
16 - ROBBOTTEDDU
7a / 15mt
Several ways of facing hard boulder, 7a farther
on the left
17 - SPIRITUAL CLIMBER
7b / 15mt
Nice route, sufficiently hard and intense
A “sweet” ending…
20 - MILANESE D.O.C.
6b+ / 15mt
AHarmless appearance but high intensity!
21 - MDF (Modulazione di Frequenza) 6a+ /
15mt
Where have the quiet slabs (and 6a+) gone?
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