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winter
2001/2002: 8a
For everybody?
The standard of local climbers has finally
seemed to rise and grade 8 is not a privilege
of the usual three or four anymore! Climbers
from Cagliari wake up from lethargy and new
names appear in the elite of local climbing,
so the young Mauro
Pisano and Giorgio
Caddeo were able to achieve their
first 8a with Wonderland, which seems to be
one of the most longed-for routes by those
who yearn for this goal. We are mostly surprised
by the “merchant captain” Fabrizio
Dessi', definitely uncontrollable
this winter, who corners difficult routes
and says that he “wants to continue until
he doesn’t break...”: we can only hope that
he is strong enough to stand the wear and
tear... Mariano Zurru
is doing very well, he achieved the “grand
slam” at the “Pietra Filosofale” in Isili
and ended the year with a boulderous 8a+ of
Work in Progress, avoiding the physiotherapist:
a double achievement! The “false Sardinian”
Domenico De Milato
did also better, from a numerical point of
view, closing for first “Kaum...” in Fuili,
no less than 8b!
Those not mentioned in this exclusive 8 club,
are certainly planning some great achievement
in spring, so...we will talk about them soon,
they mustn’t worry. Very few First Free Ascents
(only Engaku Taino by myself stands out),
the level of the onsight routes is definitely
disappointing...
On the bloc side we must mention Marco
Bussu, nowadays in the Olympus
of Italian boulder (but Giorgio
Soddu doesn’t let us know anything
- he snobs us?-, but we know that he polishes
and climbs dozens of blocks in Orani and Orotelli!)...
I follow at a looong distance, the only “part
time” boulderer-explorer in the southern part
of the island, whereas Matteo
Cara is shyly trying new blocks
and is starting from 7b (we had no doubts!)...
We can complete this list with the usual Marco
Marrosu and Lorenzo
Castaldi, alias Strarsky & Hutch,
who always find some new unprotected and dangerous
route when they are together. There is no
danger that someone will want to imitate them,
they can still operate undisturbed!
First ascents rotpunkt-style
(we report up to grade 7b, since
there have been few achievements)
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back
to arrampicatori sardi
Fabrizio Dessi'
Mauro Pisano
Mariano Zurru |
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8a/8a+ - Engaku Taino (Ruota del
tempo, Domusnovas) for Maurizio Oviglia
7b - When the music is over (Quirra)
for Simone Sarti
On sight routes (we report also
lower grades, since there have been few
achievements)
7b - Il mostro di Isili (Quirra)
for Giorgio Caddeo
7a
- Patchwork (Jerzu) for Giorgio Caddeo
and Cecilia Marchi
Repetitions
(from 7c upwards)
Ugo Bertoni
8a - Luna di miele (La Poltrona,
Cala Gonone)
Giorgio Caddeo
8a - Wonderland (senza muretto, Isili)
Domenico De Milato
8b - Kaum traumen... (Cala Fuili)
Fabrizio Dessi'
8a/8a+ - Engaku Taino (Ruota del
Tempo, Domusnovas)
8a/8a+ - Sarayevo (Urania, Isili)
8a - Fratellini chimici (Tana delle
tigri, Domusnovas)
7c+/8a - Cronache Marziane (Urania,
Isili)
7c+ - Overdose (Tana delle tigri,
Domusnovas)
Antonello Pala
8a - Caffè surreale (Urania/Isili)
Mauro Pisano
8a - Wonderland (senza muretto, Isili)
8a
- Fratellini chimici (Tana delle tigri,
Domusnovas)
Mariano Zurru
8a+ - Work in progress (Pietra Filosofale,
Isili)
7c+ - Dissonanze (Urania, Isili)
Boulder (from 7c upwards)
7a - “La buccia della luna” in Villasimius
for Maurizio Oviglia
7a/7a+ - “Solitaire” in Rio Cannas
for Maurizio Oviglia
7c - 'Time line” in Orotelli for
Marco Bussu
7c - “Il rumore delle scorregge”
in Orotelli for Marco Bussu
7c+ - “Diritto a niente” in a first
free ascent in a new area near Savona for
Marco Bussu
7b/7b+ al Cubo (V. Aosta) for Matteo
Cara
Real climbing
6c+ - “Senza parole” in Rocca Bagassa
for Lorenzo Castaldi
6a - “Giornata di primavera” in Capo
Caccia for Marco Marrosu
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