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News
news : 2006
21/11/2005- Oliena: Ugo Bertoni equipped a new route in Australia sector. The name is "Maccio Maccione", the grade 7b+. Ugo, with Alessandro Mura, also equipped a new route at Fuili.
  
09/12/2005- Isili: Maurizio Oviglia finished to bolt his old project "L''Eternauta", an incredible horizontal roof of 15 m in Urania sector.
  
21/11/2005- Oliena: Ugo Bertoni equipped a new route in Australia sector. The name is "Maccio Maccione", the grade 7b+. Ugo, with Alessandro Mura, also equipped a new route at Fuili.
  
05/12/2005- Codula Fuili: Ugo Bertoni make the first RP of his new route "Les pedagogistes", just on the right of "L''imposta". For Ugo the grade is F8a.
  
21/11/2005- Oliena: Ugo Bertoni equipped a new route in Australia sector. The name is "Maccio Maccione", the grade 7b+. Ugo, with Alessandro Mura, also equipped a new route at Fuili.
  
22/11/2005- Baunei: The new crag, equipped during the Rock Day, finished last sunday by some climbers: Fabio Dessì, Diego Bellisai, Daniele Setzu, Giacomo and Silvia Dessì. Now there are 14 routes.
  
  
21/11/2005- Oliena: Ugo Bertoni equipped a new route in Australia sector. The name is "Maccio Maccione", the grade 7b+. Ugo, with Alessandro Mura, also equipped a new route at Fuili.
  
13/11/2005- Baunei: During the Rock Day of yersterday, 30 climbers eqquipped together a new crack in a rainy sunday. The new crag, with a beautiful limestone, will be inaugurate 8 december.
  
01/11/2005- Surtana: Louis Piguet finisched his new route in Surtana, on the right of The sound of silence. The name is "Paradiso", five pitches, 6a maximum, wonderful rock!
  
29/10/2005- Buggerru: Flaviano Bessone we inform that the Swiss climbers Françoise Tauxe and Louis Piguet equipped (from the top) "Thalassa", 90 m, 5c max, between Riflessi Magici and Pista Ciclabile. Rappel on the route (70 m rope), bolts inox.
  
24/10/2005- Monte Arci (Oristano): Under the right area of the crag was built a sheepfold. Now we invite all people to have attention and respect for the animals and for the farmer.
  
24/05/2005- Monte Arci (Oristano): Under the right area of the crag was built a sheepfold. Now we invite all people to have attention and respect for the animals and for the farmer.
  
24/05/2005- Monte Arci (Oristano): Under the right area of the crag was built a sheepfold. Now we invite all people to have attention and respect for the animals and for the farmer.
  
23/10/2005- Punta Cusidore: Some climbers tell us that on the route "L''Ombra della mia mano" three bolt are missing. For the moment it''s better to take nuts and friends.
  
20/10/2005- Cala Gonone: Restrictive measures for Cala Fuili? This year has seen an exceptional and satisfactory multitude of climbers at Cala Fuili and this has certainly been a positive factor. But, on the other hand, some unpleasant episodes have occurred among the climbers, who, despite the discouragements of the local tour guides, have repeatedly light fires, slept in the caves of the Codula, forced the entrance to the caves closed by the local speleologists and left rubbish everywhere. The town councillor responsible for the tourism is strictly convinced that some restrictive measures have to be taken to protect these places. Furthermore unpleasant quarrels have been reported to have occurred between climbers and the farmer of Margheddie for the continuous transit of vans on the very narrow and dirt road which leads up to the cliffs of Margheddie, Millenium and the long routes on the cliffs. We appeal to the sense of responsibility of everybody to respect these places, so as to avoid in the future, the closeness, from the town administration, of these mentioned cliffs.
  
20/10/2005- Cala Gonone: In the Poltrona crag, Jimmy Palermo re-equipped "Mercante di Venezia" and Giampaolo Mocci and Maurizio Oviglia added two pitches to the famous route Deutsch Wall (Mariacher wall). The new pitches, on the final overhangs, are 6b and 6b+.
  
18/10/2005- The Masua cliff is closed due to a fallen masses.
  
10/10/2005- Gole di Gorroppu: Other free repetition of Hotel Supramonte by Guido Cortese. Guido worked the route in the last year; now he climb the route in two days, without fixed rope and sleeping at the seven belay.
  
04/10/2005- Aguglia di Goloritzè (Baunei): Riccardo Lami (ten year sold) had climbed Easy Gymnopedie whit his father, but Riccardo clined the hard pitch in Rotpuntk!!! Congratulations!
  
03/10/2005- Cala Gonone: Caroline Ciavaldini (20 years old) had onsighted "Il vecchio e il mare", 8b, in the Millennium cave (www.8a.nu). It not clear if Caroline had climbed the enterely route (60m, 8b) or only until the first belay (8a). In all case...congratulations!
  
01/10/2005- Codula di Luna (Baunei): Nicola Sartori, with his wife Claudia, make the first free repetition of "Spirito selvaggio", the harder roite of the zone (Larcher/Oviglia 2003). Nicola think that the second pitch is 8a+, and say of a beautiful route. Mario Pelfini make instead the first repetition of "Nuvolari".
  
28/09/2005- Punta Pilocca: Corrado Pibiri send a new traverse, start at the first bolt of Priscilla and end at the belay of "Bruciate i Piromani". The bolts was painted of yellow, the grade is 6a, 15 quickdraws.
  
27/09/2005- Genna Croce (Urzulei): The route ?Prova a prendermi?, equipped by Maurizio Oviglia ed Eugenio Pinotti are extended. The route now reach the 7c on 35 mt, and is freed in flash by Erik Svab and climbed also by Maurizio.
  
25/09/2005- Codula Fuili (Cala Gonone): Another route equipped byMaurizio Oviglia, in Thailandia sector. The route was called ?Arabesque? and reach 7a.
  
22/09/2005- Cala Domestica (Iglesias): Bruno Fonnesu equipped a new route near Cala Domestica. The route, named ?Brivido Blu? present three pitches with maximum 6a+
  
20/09/2005- Codula di Luna (Baunei): Guido Cavagnero opened a new route in solo on the big face of Bacu Esone, 40 minuti from Teletottes. The route was called "Donneneunulitru" and is around 6c. Other info: http://www.sardiniaclimb.com/Forum/viewtopic.php?t=870
  
14/09/2005- Monte Acuto (Berchidda: Marco Marrosu and Alessandro Pilloni opened a new traditional route on the north face of Monte Acuto. The new route is called "Via dei vigliacchi", 145 m of lenght and VI+ (UIAA) max
  
12/09/2005- Genna Croce (Urzulei): News from this good crag. Maurizio Oviglia bolt and climb free "Dottor Dream", a long sustained pitch of 40 m (7c+). Giuseppe Garippa and Adriano Carnati equipped "Ale e Franz", freed by Garippa (8a).
  
10/09/2005- Monte Pinu (Olbia): Andrea Mannias start to equip a new crag in Monte Pinu area. The first route is “Desert Blue” (7a), equipped and climb free by Andrea.
  
08/09/2005- Codula di Luna (Baunei): Mario Pelfini with Beccari and Garanzini openend a new route on the cliff called "S''Orcu", on the right of "Nuvolari". The new route was called "Alcool, tabacco e Venere", with 7a max, 6c+ obl. on 200 m of lenght. The route is bolted (spaced) but are necessary friend until number 4 (camalot).
  
07/09/2005- Codula Fuili (Cala Gonone): Maurizio Oviglia equipped a new route in Thailandia area, named “Le invasioni barbariche”. The route was climbed free by Maurizio and graded 7b.
  
07/09/2005- Serra Oseli (Urzulei): Gianni Cattaino equipped a new route in the slab of right area, called ?Placca di Yang?. The name of this route is ?Carloforte, 6 settembre 1995?, witch was climbed on sight for the first time by Maurizio Oviglia and graded 7b. Maurizio continued the equipment of ?Grotta di Yin? bolting bottom up ?Down emotivo?, still not climbed free.
  
05/09/2005- Castilandia (Domusnovas): Maissimo Gessa and Daniele Setzu continued the restyling of this crag extending "Il mio sole" and "Sblattox". The last one changed from 6b to 6b+.
  
02/09/2005- Baunei: Manolo free three routes in Braccio di Ferro area, Olivia and Pisellino, climbed on sight, 7c/7c+ and Poldo 8a.
  
31/08/2005- Domusnovas, Castilandia: Massimo Gessa and Maurizio Oviglia requipped "Tortura cinese" direct, now 7b on the line of bolt. On the right a new good route, "Harakiri", 7a with a particoular move....
  
30/08/2005- Furtei (CA): Two news routes in this crag for Elio Gola: "il vecchio" 7a ad a variant of Johnatan Livingstone
  
28/08/2005- ATTENTION: Don''t mark the hold in our crag, please!! In this summer we have seen a marked holds also on the five grade! We think that it is a behaviour not correct to towards want to try on sight the same routes. We pray you of to erase the signs. Thank you
  
26/08/2005- Domusnovas: Massimo Gessa added two routes in Pescheria sector: "Cozze" and "Arselle", 5b and 6a
  
24/08/2005- Gorroppu: New route "plaisir" opened by Oviglia and Mocci on the north face of the canyon. The new route, called "Ziu Basili", run on the left of "Festen". 270 mt of lenght, the difficulties reach the 6b+ (6a obl) on a good grey rock. The route is enterely bolted. In august the face is in shadow all day.
  
17/08/2005- Masua: New routes for the Padovan climber Andrea Minetto, in the Masua towers area. Two 6b routes, "Omino bianco" and "Life size".
  
07/08/2005- I Giganti, Ossi (SS) Marcello Mariano opened three new routes in this new crag: "La scimmia indovina" 6c, mt 16, "Sancio Panza" 7a mt 21 and "Mulini a vento", probably 7b (n.l.), 22 meter
  
03/08/2005- Tana delle tigri (Domusnovas): Matteo Marini make the first ascension of the Om nama shivaya extension, called OM. The grade, for Matteo, is 8a+.
  
22/07/2005- Padru (Olbia): Alessandro Gogna and Marco Marrosu termined their try on the west face of Pta dei banditi. The route, called "Fiato Sospeso", is a traditional route with some sections of VI+ no protected. The route reach VII of difficulty and 250 m of lenght
  
15/07/2005- Urzulei: Maurizio Oviglia begin to bolt a new overhanging cave down Serra Oseli. For the moment two easy routes, Iris (6b+) and Malotiempo (6b+).
  
09/07/2005- Domusnovas: for the meeting NO BIG DOMUSNOVAS Pietra di luna realized two littles climbing guides of Canneland, Cartoonia and Castilandia.The climbing guides are available for free at bar/pizzeria Perda ‘e Cerbu at the entrance of San Giovanni caves
  
07/07/2005- San Nicolò (Buggerru): Some new routes in this good gorge, opened by Mariano Zurru, the "teste calde" team and the swiss climber Pascal. On the Tower two good routes, 7a+ and 7b
  
07/07/2005- Arcadio (Cala Gonone): The Nuoro Climbers signalized that on the route BROD OY in ARCADIO crag, there is a nest of hawk with little ones . For this do not climb on this route. Thank you!
  
06/07/2005- Serra Oseli (Urzulei): Maurizio Oviglia make the first free ascent of "Mascalzone latino" (6c+) and "I favolosi anni ''80", (7c) on the right crag. Eugenio Pinotti, Enzo Ramelli e Piero Repetti opened a trad route on the classical wall, "Bissaboga", 160 m, 5c/6a. only one pg in place.
  
04/07/2005- Codula Fuili (Cala Gonone): In Thailandia sector Eugenio Pinotti bolted "Nuoresi sempre appesi" (6c+) and "Piacentini ladri e assassini" (6b+) two good slab routes. In front "Piemontese falso cortese" (6b) and "Vado, la chiodo e torno" (6a). On the same side, on the left, Maurizio Oviglia opened "Anatema", (7a/b).
  
01/07/2005- Cala Gonone: Roberto Vigiani bolted a new hard project on the Chorro Cliff naamed "catalicammello".
  
01/07/2004- Cala Gonone: Roberto Vigiani bolted a new hard project on the Chorro Cliff naamed "catalicammello".
  
29/06/2005- Canneland (Domusnovas): We ask to climbers who climb in Canneland and Bronx area, to park our car in the proper place and not at the entrance of the cave. Thank you
  
27/06/2005- Codula di Luna (Baunei): Maurizio Oviglia and Eugenio Pinotti equipped a newmultipitch route on Donneneittu wall. The new route, Linea Blu, have 160m of lenght, 7a+ max, 6c obligatory, enterely bolted
  
24/06/2005- Urzulei: Maurizio Oviglia and Eugenio Pinotti starting to bolt a new cliff in Serra Oseli. The climb is here more technical than Genna Croce, the rock is very beatiful
  
22/06/2005- Oliena: Some new multipitches routes opened by Lorenzo Nadali and his friends in Lanaitto Valley. The topos of the routes are available at the IRIS CAFE'' in Cala Gonone.
  
20/06/2005- Canneland (Domusnovas): Some changes are apported on the route Blacksheep. Now is possible to climb the route from the bottom of the river (6c+) or from the railing (6c). The end of the route is the same of Non ti muovere
  
18/06/2005- Surtana (Dorgali): The swiss climber Louis Piguet equipped "Paradiso" on the right of "The sound of silence" (5c, 6a, 5c). Lousi also equipped a new route in Silja sector, Cala Fuili, and re-equipped some routes of this area. Thank you Louis!
  
16/06/2005- Cala Gonone: Roberto Vigiani make the first RP of "Rosa Liboin", 8a, on the Chorro Cave. Roberto extend also El Chorro (7c) and M.lle Toxine (7b+)
  
11/06/2005- Domusnovas: New route in Cannelaand for Maurizio Oviglia, "Dobermann", a long pitch (45 m!!) of 7c.
  
10/06/2005- Codula di luna:Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Simone Sarti finished a new route on the new wall. The route named "Nuovolari", 240 m, 7a+ max, 6c+ obl., enterely bolted but very exposed...
  
06/06/2005- Dorgali:: New sector on the right of Dorgali cliff. There are ten overhang routes, from 6a to 7b. Some routes present a sharp holds.
  
27/05/2005- Isili: G. Mocci e M. Oviglia equipped 5 new routes in Corvo Spaziale area: Dr. Jackill (7a+), Mr Hyde (7a), Belfagor (6c+), Cardellino (6b) and Is Paras (6a+). The route are opened with a greaat contribute of Hotel del Cardellino, Isili.
  
26/05/2005- Masua:>/B> New sector bolted by Fonnesu and Bessone on the Masua Towers, on the right of the old route Giochi al sole. There are nine good routes, from 5c to 6c+
  
24/05/2005- Codula Fuili, Cala Gonone: Rolando Larcher send the RP of "Sapientino" is old project in the Grotta dei Bimbi. Rolando proposed 8c, the third of Sardinia
  
17/05/2005- Hotel Supramonte, rectification: After some verification and controversial, it seem that the first on sight of this route it is not still climbed. Steve Mc Clure had in fact climbed the fifth pitch (now graded 8a+) in flash and the route in sections of some days. We remember to the public that Yann Guesquiers, in 2001, climbed the entirely route in one day, without fixed ropes, climbing on sight the first three pitches and at the first attempt the 4th and the 5th.
  
15/05/2005- Seui: Maurizio Oviglia and Giampaolo Mocci finished a new crag in Mount Tonneri zone. The new crag present 13 routes from 4c to 6b+. The rock is the same than jerzu, the quote 1000 m and the esposition is north
  
12/05/2005- Domusnovas: Matteo Marini re-free Engaku Taino (ruota del Tempo) after a broken hold. The grade is now 8a+.
  
09/05/2005- Gorroppu: from the web site planetfear.com is Steve Mac Clure the first climber to climb onsight Hotel Supramonte. More details on www.planetfear.com
  
09/05/2005- Surtana: New route just on the right of "The sound of silence", probably equipped by the strangers climbers. The new route, 3 pitches of long, is named "Paradiso"
  
30/04/2005- Villagrande Strisaili: Giorgio Caddeo and Maurizio Oviglia finished to bolt a new red porphyry crag in locality Praidas, on the road that from Villagrande reach Talana. There are 16 routes, from 5a to 7b. It is better to climb after the 14 pm, in the shadow.
  
28/04/2005- Gorroppu, Hotel Supramonte: Another completely free ascent of Hotel Supramonte, one on the most famous modern mutipitch in the word. This one is the turn of Philippe Mussatto, 46 year old, that free the route at the first try, after falled on sight like than his compatriot Yann Ghesquiers. At this moment nobody have climbed the route onsight, while the climbers that had climbed free the route are, at today, Pietro Dal Prà, Beat Kammerlander, Yann Guesquiers, Daniel Dulac, Daniel Andrada, Bubu Bole, Martina Cufar, Marko Lukich and Philippe Mussatto. In this moment on the route there is Steve Mc Clure. Mussatto had climbed also "Le lion de Panhir", 8b+ in Millennium cave, at the first try
  
19/04/2005- Domusnovas: First RP for Philippe Mussatto on "La casa degli orrori" in the Bronx sector. The grade proposed is 8a+. Philippe, during an on sight ascent of Engaku taino (Ruota del Tempo, 8a/8a+) broken the last hold of the route. For the moment the route is harder.
  
16/04/2005- Chinatown (Domusnovas): Two new routes equipped by Maurizio Oviglia in the Rifondazione Strapiombista sector, a 5c+ and 6c+.
  
06/04/2005- B>San Teodoro: The boulder area of San Teodoro (Pietra di Luna, page 360) is closed for some problems with a ground proprietary.
  
25/03/2005- Chinatown: Other two routes in Rifondazione strapiombista sector for Maurizio Oviglia. "Soviet" (6b+) and "Matrioska multijet" (6b).
  
23/03/2005- Isili: Seven new routes in the Paese dei Nuraghi sector.
  
21/03/2005- Chinatown: New route in Rifondazione area for Maurizio Oviglia. For "Cometa Rossa", 30 m, Maurizio propose 7a+/7b.
  
21/03/2004- Chinatown: New route in Rifondazione area for Maurizio Oviglia. For "Cometa Rossa", 30 m, Maurizio propose 7a+/7b.
  
17/03/2005- Isili: Simone Sarti and Maurizio Oviglia equipped a great and very esthetical new route in Urania. The route, named "Lo squalo" (the shark), was climbing free by Simone and graded 7b. A future classic of Isili!
  
15/03/2005- Monte Ruiu (S. Maria Coghinas, SS): Another new route for Marco Marrosu and Luca Montanaro on this granithic mountain. 220 m of lenght, IV+ UIAA
  
14/03/2005- Isili: Fabrizio Dessì make the first RP of the new Body Balance at Urania. The grade proposed is 7a+.
  
11/03/2005- Baunei: Oviglia an Mocci re-equipped "Mediterraneo" route on the Punta Giradili. They also opened a deautiful variant on the last pitch (6c).
  
02/03/2005- Monte Ruju (SS): New traditional route opened by Marco marrosu and Roberto Masia, on the S face of Monte Ruju
  
01/03/2005- Baunei: Maurizio Oviglia finished to bolt the new crag inside the touristic port of Santa Maria Navarrese. Now there are 16 routes, from 4b to 7b. Soon on this web site the topos
  
11/02/2005- Ulassai: A new depliant with all climbing and touristic possibilities in this area (english version) were finally printed in the last days. Who is interested please contact sumarmuri@tiscali.it
  
10/02/2005- Isili: Others three new routes in the Corvo Spaziale area. The grade is about 6a/6b.
  
08/02/2005- Masua: Another route for Bruno Fonnesu in Castello dell''Iride cliff: "Stampu" (6a+)
  
28/01/2005- Isili: Two new routes in the left sector of Urania, opened by Oviglia.
  
23/01/2005- Masua: New route in Castello dell''Iride, on the right of Cavallo Bendato. The name is "Flash" and the grade is 6a+.
  
19/01/2005- Quirra: Matteo Marini make the first RP of "Insensatez", the last route equipped in this crag.
  
11/01/2005- Monte Albo: Another trad route for Lorenzo Castaldi and Marco Marrosu, on the Torre delle capre. The new route named "Tranello alle porte" reach 180 of lenght and VII+ of difficulty
  
09/01/2005- Dorgali During the inundation of last mounth, the bridge of Sa Barva was destroyed by the water. Now the access for Gorroppu, Oddeu and Surtana is changed. It seems that there is a ford in front of Surtana, waited a new bridge...
  
09/01/2005- Dorgali During the inundation of last mounth, the bridge of Sa Barva was destroyed by the water. Now the access for Gorroppu, Oddeu and Surtana is changed. It seems that there is a ford in front of Surtana, waited a new bridge...
  
05/01/2005- Punta Cusidore: New traditional route on the west face of this mountain, opened the last day of year by Lorenzo castaldi and Marco Marrosu. The new route "Sole d''inverno", run on the pillar imlmediately on the left of the west face. The route have 185 m of lenght and reach the VII-.