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Sardiniaclimb – FAQ

WHY COME TO SARDINIA TO CLIMB?

1) What type of rock is it in Sardinia?
In Sardinia there are various types of rock, but it’s the limestone that has made Sardinia known world-wide. It’s generally very good quality, similar to that of Provence in France. In the north of the island you find as well granite and, in some limited areas, basalt.

2) What type of climbing is there?
The majority of climbs are sport climbs. There are very many crags spread throughout the whole island. Nevertheless and above all in the centre-east area of the island called Supramonte there are quite a few multi-pitch sports routes. You can also do alpine rock climbing, most famously in Gallura (north) and also in Supramonte. Bouldering is a relatively recent discipline, and the best places are around Villasimius (South), Nuoro (centre) and Gallura (North).

3) Are the routes bolted?
All the sports climbing routes are bolted to modern-day standards of safety. In the most popular venues, the bolting is periodically checked. On the modern long multipitch routes, the bolts are more widely-spaced and you should find out about the difficulties to avoid nasty surprises. The alpine routes are NOT bolted and you should take pegs, peg hammer and removable protection (Friends/nuts).

4) If I do sport climbing, what are the best places?
There are 4 most famous areas for sport climbing: Cala Gonone, Jerzu, Isili and the Iglesiente, around Iglesias. Recently the Sassari-Alghero area is being added to this list and you shouldn’t overlook some splendid crags such as Quirra or the recently-developed crags near Urzulei and Baunei.

5) I like alpine routes and hate bolts, where should I go?
For the Alpine-type routes, the best area is still the Supramonte, with long routes similar to those you find in the Dolomites, but with much better rock. In Gallura you can also find some very good routes. The modern multipitch routes are concentrated in the triangle formed by the villages of Oliena, Dorgali and Baunei. Others, but generally shorter, are further south around Iglesias.

6) I climb mainly easy routes (up to 6a), where’s best?
The areas of Cala Gonone, Baunei and Masua (Iglesias) offer a wide range of easy and well-bolted crags. In terms of multipitches, the only easy areas are Cala Gonone (Poltrona) or Dorgali (Surtana).

7) I love high-level sport climbing, which are the best crags?
The best crags are without doubt Isili, Cala Gonone, Jerzu, Domusnovas and Quirra. At Isili and Quirra the climbing is steep and stenuous, at Jerzu it’s generally more technical. In the other areas you find a bit of everything.

8) I’d like a place to climb by the sea, what would you advise?
Without doubt Cala Gonone or Masua. Other areas are becoming established, such as Santa Maria Navarrese (Baunei) and Alghero. In these places you can rent apartments or make use of the numerous B&B/Agriturismi (farm holidays).

9) I’m with my family. They don’t climb and want a beach holiday, where can I find someone to climb with for a few hours?
The best place is Cala Gonone where you can always find someone, especially in the months May-June and September-October. Climbers usually meet up in the bars, on the beach or at the campsite.

10) I’m undecided where to go, between Kalymnos, the Balearics and Sardinia. What’s a good reason for choosing Sardinia?

Sardinia is much bigger than the other classic destinations for a climbing holiday. There’s more choice and also many non-climbing things to see and do. In addition, the sea in Sardinia is the best!



(Thanks to the British climber Peter Herold who lives in Ogliastra for the translation. Contact Peter for more info www.peteranne.it)