Report

REPORT PUNTA CUSIDORE,
north-west spur Legione Reale Truppe Leggere route

Difficulties: D superior, IV and V, some V+
moves Height: 450 metres
Equipment on spot: some pitons
Equipment required: two 50 Mt. cords, hammer, pitons, nuts, helmet and cords.
Descent: on foot southwards, then from Forcella of Sovana along a scree till the bottom of the spur.
Exposure: west
Map-making and guides: IGM 50.000, table "Oliena", Guide "Monti d'Italia" ( Italian Mountains), CAI/TCI "Sardegna", by Maurizio Oviglia
Information Service: Cooperativa ENIS Monte Maccione, tel. 0784/288363. Hotel, guides centre, possibility of camping. Gorroppu Refuge, at the beginning of Oddoene valley, Dorgali. Seasonal opening.
Access: along the provincial road to Oliena, then towards Dorgali. Turn right before the "Grifone" pizzeria and go towards the church of Monserrata. Turn immediately on the left following a little road, then go southwards in the direction of P Sos Nidos; then turn left and go back towards Cusidore walls till Iscandula fountain.
On foot entrance: follow the little disarranged road, which is an uphill one at first and then a level road south-westwards until you reach the big rock called Pedra e' Littu (30 minutes walk from the car). From Preda E' Littu go up in the direction of P. Cusidore, following a gravely path (red and white marks) until you reach the scree, descending from the northwest spur. Always following the tracks you will reach the rocks base with more difficulty (45-minutes/ one hour and fifteen minutes from the car). You will find yourself at a little ridge, circumscribing a little amphitheatre; the ski binding is indicated by a writing on a wood sign.
Useful information: -First climbing: Emilio Beber, Carmelo Andreatta, Giovanni Cagnati, 1st October 1973. The itinerary follows the visible north a west mountain spur and is the classical climbing to the P. Cusidore summit: it is the most frequented alpine route of Sardinia. The route stands in the centre of the big pillar at the bottom; then it faces the final buttress on the left after a series of airy and level little ridges, towards the wall descending on the grassy small basin suspended at about two third of the north big wall height. The entire climbing is very interesting and maintains a certain continuity even in the connection middle part between the first pillar and the final spur. It is advisable to combine this climbing with the Friendship walk (there are a lot of combinations possible). The way normally followed is a combination of the original path and the numerous changes of new climbers. There are some pitons on the wall, even if few of them are reliable. It is advisable to take a series of nuts and a hammer. Consider an entire daytime for a repetition. Recommended period: between seasons.
Report
Climb up the little ridge along a beautiful crack and have a break on the little overlooking rocks in the centre of the pillar (50 metres, one IV+ move). Climb up along easy little rocks and stop at a little tree slightly on the right of a big detached block (50 metres, III). Climb up the pointed block (IV) going out onto the beautiful overlooking slabs. The original itinerary is not very clear at this point and there are several ways followed. Herewith you will find explained the first itinerary traced by the first climbers: some wood wedges have been found there. This itinerary has sometimes been avoided on the right, for the benefit of a beautiful dihedral, V degree crack. You then climb the slabs a little on the left, having a break at the bottom of a little dihedral on a little tree (50 metres, IV). You climb the little dihedral up going out on the right, then a beautiful little diagonal crack on the left (nuts and wedges) until you reach some trees on a ledge (50 Mt, IV and V). You go on without following a compulsory route along little rocks until you reach a clear crack, stopping at a tree (50 Mt, III). In all probability the first climbers avoided the three next lengths following on the right but crossed on rocks and grass for 45 metres and joined the itinerary described again, near the top of the pillar. The paternity of the variation herewith described (which is also the fundamental part of the way) has been claimed by Corrado Pibiri and Bruno Poddesu during the first repetition in 1980. You go beyond the large crack (V+) which can be avoided going out on the right along a ramp rising rightwards. You stop on pitons at the bottom of a dihedral-chimney (30 Mt, V+, and IV). Go over a relief, then go on in the dihedral and go out on the right towards an overhang on a slanted slab (25 Mt, V e V+, and several nuts). You take up the crack on the left again which becomes less difficult soon and stop on rock spikes as soon as possible (50 Mt, V, and IV). Go on rightwards and go beyond the final part of the pillar without a compulsory route; you go along beautiful little walls of good rock, having a break on a slanted slab at the top of the first relief (50 Mt, IV). SPACCARE(???) on a narrow little pass (nut) and climb up along cracks and relieves (not taking the difficult and large crack on the left with bolt belonging to the Friendship route). You stop on a narrow little arete (50 Mt, III, an IV move). You go along the thread until you reach the bottom of a beautiful crack with tree. Climb the crack up and the next wall until you reach the top of the relief (50 Mt, IV+ and then > IV). (From this point on rappels are possible along the "Cuore di Pietra"-Stone Heart- way-itinerary 54h, on the north side: writing on a rock spike with cords; two 50 Mt cords are necessary). You can go easily on along the little ridge, until you reach a little pass (50 mt, II e III). You face now the final relief climbing up along the spur which will soon become a dihedral; you leave it soon after and cross on a narrow ledge on the left and leaving the Friendship route which goes on straightwards. You then have a break on the northern wall (25 mt, V-). You still go on along diagonal crack, which are a little grassy, until you reach the final gully (50 mt, IV and V). You go on without a compulsory way towards the top of the mountain (50 mt, III). Mileage times are variable: a well-trained roped party, which is friendly with this kind of itinerary, can spend 5/ 6 hours. Anyway this is a longed-for route for novice roped parties: so it sometimes happened that someone had to camp or to be rescued by a helicopter. Novices have to foreseen an entire day of climbing.